jimmy choo All hail the anti-it bag - Telegraph_75

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Price tags, instead of shooting into the sum-of-a-small-car stratosphere, come frequently under the ￡500 mark. On the high street,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], Banana Republic does an army-blue, waxy leather shoulder bag for ￡95, and there's a charming raffia style for just under ￡50 at Mango.
All hail the anti-it bag - Telegraph
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All hail the anti-'it' bag
A new breed of demure, retro handbags has displaced voluminous designer bling.
Quilted patent leather tote, ￡225, Russell & Bromley; 020 7629 6903. Right: Leather 'Classic’, ￡2,200, Celine at Dover Street Market; 0207 5180 680
Check out a selection of retro-style handbags in the Telegraph Fashion Shop
"The bag is back, but it's not vulgar," says Katie Hillier, the London-based accessory designer and consultant for Marc Jacobs. "It's demure, simple and classic. The quality once again lies in the material and the craft, rather than gratuitous hardware. For me, the most classic bag will always be the Constance from Hermès,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], which many designers have referenced over the last few seasons."
Taking the new notion of utility to heart, Marc Jacobs and [link widoczny dla zalogowanych] have come up with camera bags to sling over one's new season khakis and flak jackets. You might not be housing a Pentax SLR inside, but its capacity is good for a novel, a lipstick, a notebook and keys - things that women want on assignment.
Sebastian Manes, director of accessories at Selfridges,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych],[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], agrees: "We have gradually seen the seasonal campaign bag be replaced by core ranges that offer customers understated luxury with real longevity. We continue to see women spending on signature handbags from luxury brands - the Hermès Kelly, Balenciaga Lariat and Chanel 2.55 are consistent top sellers at Selfridges."
My personal favourite is a mink-brown,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], flap-pocket shoulder bag from Gucci 's forthcoming autumn/winter 2010/11 collection, which harks back to the Seventies in its sensual ovaline shape.

"For spring/summer, designers have focused on simple shapes and impeccable craftsmanship that complement the luxe-minimal mood of the season. Chloé 's Mavis cross-body satchel and Dries Van Noten 's monochrome, structured tote have been favourites - both are timeless, functional and beautifully made."
Why the covert confession? It has to be said that lusting after handbags has not been chic of late. They became very big, very flashy and far from discreet, covered in every gewgaw from lariats to gold-plated rivets, or crafted from Botoxed snakeskin , with price tags that shot up into the thousands.
Even the Gucci "G" is looped in a soothingly retro style, fashioned for striding along metropolitan streets with a romance-in-the-afternoon rendezvous in mind. Which is much more than could be said for the riveted,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], urban warrior designs of yesteryear. Who in her right mind wants to declare that they are going into battle? Far better to sleuth in by surprise.
Of note is Phoebe Philo at Céline, the progenitor of the new pared-down look, who dubbed the bag in her spring/summer 2010 collection the "anti-It" bag,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], and made little fanfare about its stealth launch. Count in there Hermès's Constance bag with its H-buckle fastening and neat round-edged shape. Then there's Lanvin 's Happy bag, a rectangular envelope style, with a sliding strap which is easily adjustable in length,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], comes in a variety of skins from metallic python to patent calfskin, and would go with just about everything, day or night - such versatility has been the USP of the classic Chanel 2.55 bag for decades. Fendi , purveyor of the Baguette, one of the original It bags, offers a sleek square shape with a hint of Seventies girl-about-Studio 54. These designs hang at hip length and look the part with a boyfriend jacket or a filmy, chiffon dress.
BY Laetitia Lipman |12 May 2010
In a hushed, hand-over-mouth fashion, a financier friend recently disclosed: "I've got handbag desire again - I have my eye on a Céline Classic in tan calfskin."
But, slowly and surely, the handbag is returning as an accessory to desire for reasons beyond an exorbitant price tag and braggadocio branding. This new generation of handbags is marked by a feeling of classic and timeless style. In keeping with our more sober times, it is modest in size, discreetly logo-ed (if at all) and boasts functionality in the shape of neat, zipped inner pockets, and durability in calfskin and waxy leather.

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Wags touted them as trophies, and so enormous were their dimensions that skinny celebrities, such as the Olsen twins, could have curled up inside them. Fashion houses fed the ravenous appetite with endless It bags, flagging up designs as "iconic" before they had even hit the sales floor. No wonder we encountered bag fatigue and diverted our attention to heels (which soon followed a similar trajectory).
A glance at next season's catwalks and you can be assured that the discreet handbag is going to fly.

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