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christian dior Rene Gruau- a fashionable see by th

 
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PostWysłany: Sob 6:21, 26 Lut 2011    Temat postu: christian dior Rene Gruau- a fashionable see by th

For Diorama, a mark of fragrance namely emulated Miss Dior, the illustration depicts a neo-Louis XVI chair upholstered in the shade of roseate that Dior applied apt his wear devise. An unseen wearer has tossed a pair of long pearly mitts and a spectacular dark scarf aboard the seat. Leret scrutinized that the two men had learnt approximately the important character played at accessories for 'they had both went because the same cap magazines'.
Photo: SARL René Gruau
The forthcoming exhibition at Somerset House in London has been curated by Vincent Leret, the co-author of a paperback on Dior and the curator of the Christian Dior repository in Granville, France. In chat with Leret recently I inquired about the press among Dior and Gruau. Stressing the wider picture of a mutual cultural heritage and a like-minded aesthetic, he added, 'They both shared the same charm for aesthetic moms, kitted out with parasols, wallets and wide-brimmed hats.'
In the case of Miss Dior, the house's premier branded eau de toilette, launched in 1949, Dior's life filters via the details of one of the drawings. A white swan profiled in sweeping black brushstrokes is shown navigating over silence waters and sporting a black bow - a Dior insignia - and a jewelry locket.
BY Drusilla Beyfus |23 October 2010
Related treatises In pictures: Fashion illustrator René Gruau, the drawer of DiorReader, I swooned The golden old of magazine illustrationNicolas Sarkozy slander works back to Hungarian rootsMarket news
John Galliano, the dress designer at [link widoczny dla zalogowanych], has recommended that Gruau 'captured Dior's neatness and morale better than any additional for he understood his long-term friend... for me a Gruau limn arrests the energy, the sophistication and bravery of Dior, and equally is testimony to an enduring friendship.'
René Gruau was an Italian-born illustrator who worked at the front line of tall fashion for more than 60 years. Next month his sketches for the House of Dior ambition reach a new audience at an exhibition in his name. To some, it will be a reminder of what the brush, pen and ink attained before the camera took over. What set Gruau apart from his peers is that many of his best work was done for promotional and marketing purposes.
Many of his guiding guy illustrators tended to be iffy about the genre alternatively chose to omit it, confining their work to 1 publisher or vogue journal. But Gruau is honored with creature much more than a Mr Puff: his coverage of the latest object in dress, accessories and perfumery stimulated an awareness of French shape after the Second World War, a period when the manufacture needed a shove to obtain back on its feet afresh.
Rene Gruau: a new look at the influential Dior illustrator - Telegraph
Fashion is a variety of beauty, let us hope that


Rene Gruau: a new see at the influential Dior illustrator
As a new exhibition celebrates the groundbreaking work of the fashion illustrator René Gruau, Drusilla Beyfus examines his allure.
'Dior Illustrated: René Gruau's Line of Beauty' is at Somerset House from November 10 to January 9. 'René Gruau's First Century' by Sylvie Nissen and Vincent Leret (rrp £45) is being republished by Scriptum Editions to coincide with the exhibition. Copies are available for £40 plus £1.25 p&p from Telegraph Books (0844-871 1515; books.wireless.co.uk
Gruau lived to become honoured internationally, up until his death in 2004. His work is in citizen museums and galleries, including the Louvre, as well as in numerous private accumulations.
The lithographs of Toulouse-Lautrec are often quoted in linkage with him. From these sources he also designed his outstanding curvilinear signature consisting of the chief letter G, above which there is a starlike fashion said to have originated in a blob of ink. He used storytelling and a witty sense of detection, and liked to reception the clasp on the feelingful content of an image.

The couturier kept swans by his country possession, Le Moulin du Coudret. Moreover,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], in the decor of 18th-century France - a time revered by the couturier - the swan characterized renewal. Miss Dior was aimed at a new generation.
Eau Fra?che, Dior's private choice of cologne, was launched in the mid-1950s. Gruau did several illustrations for the brand,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], including a unisex war. It depicted the behind view of a striped deckchair in which only the altitude of the sitter's pate is visible.
Gruau worked for many contributors including Balmain, Givenchy, Schiaparelli, Jacques Fath and Edward Molyneux,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], and also for suppliers of top-quality textiles, motorcars and wine. He did ballet sets and costumes. But arguably it was his inspired collaboration with [link widoczny dla zalogowanych] Dior and the House of Dior that ticketed his fame. Beginning with Dior's New Look in 1947,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], Gruau's connection with the couture house continued well after Dior's decease in 1957, until the late 1990s.
The props are a tennis din, a towel and a bottle of cologne. There are no hints as to the gender of the consumer. John Galliano wrote, 'A Gruau sketch stimulates always the senses and takes you back to… fashion revolution.'

Using a roomy, streaming brushstroke, pen, Indian ink and gouache, he would establish a idea on a floor of smooth tone. He drew on numerous artistic influences, such as Japonism, which was in the cultural ventilation, the kabuki theatre with its emphasis on make-up and masks,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], and on Japanese woodcuts principally.
René Gruau was born Renato Zavagli Ricciardelli in Rimini in 1909 to a kin of aristocrats. His father was an Italian count. Following the divorce of his parents when he was 3, and his mother's migrate to Paris,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], René took the virgin name of his well-born, artistically disposed French mother,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], Maria Gruau de la Chesnaie. He lived and worked in France.
Gruau's management for Eau Sauvage, an aftershave also introduced in the mid-1950s, heaved a few eyebrows. Humorously conceived, it revealed a pair of hairy thighs that had to be a man's. The figure's lower torso only was shown, discreetly covered in a faux leopardskin. It became renowned with both males and women and was worn by Gruau himself.


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